One step forward, 10 steps back…

Sometimes you have set-backs in a project due to financial constraints, problems ordering parts, the alignment of the moons of Jupiter, or your labrador might have a bad case of the farts.

For my car, I’ve had to take it back to bare metal and start all over again as the body and paint guy I trusted with my car and money screwed me over.

I realised I was in trouble when rust started popping out through the primer on the car. I had assumed Old Mate (as the former “body and paint guy” shall now be known) panel beat the raw metal, cleaned that metal with a de-oxidisation chemical I’d provided him, then sealed the metal in epoxy primer, applied filler on top and stuck some 1k spray can primer on at the end.

Not so. He slung bondo straight onto the bare steel without even surfacing it properly with 80-grit on an orbital sander to take the disc-sanding scratches out. He hadn’t even fixed any of the dents.

With my funds almost exhausted I had to make a call as to what I was going to do with the car, and parting it out was looking like a good option. Thankfully Brad at Cool-Az Hot Rods agreed to take a look at it once I got rid of all the crappy 1K primer on the car.

Brad has advised me the whole paint process needs to be started over again. The door jambs and roof need to be sanded back with 600-grit and resprayed, though the bonnet seems to be OK to be blocked and painted.

I wanted to test-fit the car’s nosecone just to see if it was all straight as I realised Old Mate hadn’t fit up any panels. It took some tweaking but eventually i got the nose back on the car.

I fitted the trunk lid back on the car so I could check gaps and see if the back of the car was out of alignment. This was a 3-person job such is the size of the panel!

I test-fit the hood, too. Unfortunately it doesn’t clear my air filter so I’ll have to custom-make a drop-base air filter housing now…

I spent a day digging body filler out of both front guards, which already had rust forming underneath as they hadn’t been sealed. Pro tip for anyone thinking of doing body work: you need to seal bare metal with epoxy primer as soon as possible. Rattle can “1k” primer doesn’t cut it.

Brad Power from Cool Az Hot Rodz picked the car up to take to his shop. I had wiped all the primer off the car just using thinners, exposing plenty of rusty steel underneath. I then used Oxytech Anti-Ox metal cleaner (see: HERE) to kill any rust left on the panels.

With the front guards back to bare metal, then conditioned with Anti-Ox (see above) I had them quickly shot in All-U-Need primer. They are now ready to be repaired, blocked and re-hung.

Despite having been told by Old Mate that my trunk lid was all repaired and ready to go, Brad found significant untreated rust.

The main rust hole popping out the back of the trunklid, though the rear horrors lie underneath as rust wasn’t treated or repaired – it was primed and painted straight over.

Brad cleaned up the metal, stripped all the seam-sealer off and repaired a bunch of rust that had developed underneath it. He and the crew then pulled the rear quarter straight, hosed it in spray bog, then finished it with primer. It is now ready to block!

The right-side quarter panel needed a large section around the wheel-arch cut out and welded in, though Brad was able to beat and smooth the rest of the panel, pulling it into shape. This side is now ready for blocking.

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