There are 100,000 tiny jobs that swallow days during a build, which is why I haven’t updated this blog.

I’ve been slack, I know. Three months without an update is a bit of a poor showing on my behalf, especially when I’ve been so busy with the car.

Amazingly it still looks like it did a few months ago, however I’ve been sorting engine wiring, plumbing various sensors, ordering gauges and a hundred other parts, and generally spending the US defence budget.

I didn’t take photos of installing the fuel tank, though I managed to get it back in the car with some nice 3mm rubber to isolate it, and the fuel filler neck is bolted back in place, too. Once the fuel pump is finally secure (see below) I’ll actually be able to put gas in my car and check the fuel system for leaks! 

I’ve also been playing with the accelerator (gas) pedal and working out ways to convert it from the old linkage type to a cable operation. My new Lokar floor-mount universal kit has turned up so I’m keen to get that in and ensure everything works with that as it is very crowded with the Lokar kick-down bracketry and cables, too.

Unfortunately neither of my flash Lokar or Kugel column shift kits fit my car, despite both being sold to fit ’64 Pontiac Bonneville. I ended up cutting up some stock parts and the Kugel rod to make my own and it is perfect, though I do have to change the gear indicator on the steering column as my Super-Hydramatic had a different gear run.

The next step is to prime the oil system using the tool I made recently out of the stock ’64 389 distributor I had laying around, then bolt the fuel pump in, add some petrol (gasoline) and find power in the loom so I can check for leaks. I already filled the transmission and cooling system with their respective fluids and so the Poncho is possibly a couple of days away from firing up!

Anyway, a picture is worth 1000 words apparently so check out 20,000 words below.

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I mounted the coil packs on the firewall and made ignition leads. I’ve also mounted the Bosch (Ford) 2-wire idle air control valve.

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After finding I had the wrong fuel pump, I purchased the correct item and discovered it was 10mm too tall for my custom-made fuel tank. Thankfully Ryan at United Speed Shop machined me up a spacer ring that allows me to bolt the whole lot together and doesn’t require any welding or fab work.

Here is the stock distributor I pulled apart. I’ve kept the housing on the right so I can turn it into a cam sync in case I ever want to go sequential ignition (which requires a crank and cam signal).

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I found an old socket that fit the top of the distributor shaft which I could weld on. I had to also grind off the gears on the oil pump drive at the base of the shaft.

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Everything looks good once it is rattle-canned black!

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Here is part of the stock shift linkage (top piece) and the Kugel rod on the bottom. I cut both pieces and welded them together to make one piece that fit perfectly.

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Here is the finished shift rod, which works perfectly.

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Here is most of the stock accelerator linkage set-up, possibly also with some transmission linkage bits (I’m genuinely not sure any more). I’d hoped to be able to use the stock pedal or a late model Holden Commodore item I purchased for $50 but neither were going to work without a decent amount of fabrication, so I caved and bought a floor-mount Lokar set-up.

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Although their shift kit and accelerator linkage kit didn’t fit my car the electronic TH400 kick-down kit from Lokar was a piece of cake to whack in.

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Well, that’s enough for this update. My beer is empty and I need to get on to priming the oil system, hooking up power to the ECU and kicking this thing in the guts!


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