One of the biggest individual projects I’ve undertaken is fitting fully programmable EFI to my ’64 Pontiac’s engine. I had a rebuilt carby (carburetor) on a new intake manifold all set-up ready to drive when I realised I wanted the easy starting, improved fuel use and cleaner running from EFI.
This blog post won’t cover everything, but I’ll give you a run down on what has happened so far with the wiring and ignition set-up. I’ll cover the fuel system and intake manifold in later posts.
I have purchased a new Haltech Elite 950 ECU to run the show. While a “bolt-on” system from Holley, FiTech, FAST and others seemed appealing I work in the aftermarket industry and have seen too many people replace the ECUs that come with those set-ups for something that can be fine-tuned better to consider them.
I also wanted to run two four-barrel throttle bodies for the vintage “dual quad” muscle car look. At the time I embarked on this journey the only way for me to do this was by using the Haltech and if I had my time over I’d definitely stay with the Haltech product.
This is a complex swap, but is easy to knock over if you are methodical and read up a lot as you go (thank you, King Google!). Wiring is definitely NOT my forte so I was dreading the job of diving into the wiring loom which came with my Haltech Elite 950 ECU.
Most of the pieces of the puzzle… *gulp*
This diagram (below) is the God sheet… well, this is the God sheet for the Haltech Elite 750 not my 950, but it is close enough. Basically, you match the wires on your loom to what the below says. Haltech have really saved the bacon of all of us who are pretty good at the old Shadetree Mechanic schtick, but are still a fair way short of professional status.
After working out what wires go where, I noted what each wire was for and loosely grouped them together into their basic formats. So i had the 8 fuel injector wires together, the four wires going to the coils together, the wires going to the throttle bodies (idle air control, throttle position sensor, intake air temp, etc).
The next step from this is to take the loom into the cabin, mount the ECU and push the various wires needed to run the different functions through as they’re required. I’ll do this once I get my intake manifold back so I can work out how much wire length I need for the various sensors on my FAST universal throttle bodies.
Along with the various sensor plugs I needed, I sourced my Hall-effect digital crank angle sensor from EFIhardware.com a company based in Melbourne, Australia. They also sell this tidy little billet mount to house the sensor. I’ll mount this to the fuel pump block-off plate I made (see the blog post about that below) once I get my balancer back from having the toothed signal wheel fitted to it. I can then set the sensor up to read where the toothed wheel sits.
Instead of a distributor I am using 8 coilpacks from a 5.7-litre LS1 Chevy V8. This should be a better, tidier solution to firing my 400cui Pontiac V8. The coilpacks are mounted on a pair of cool brackets from Australian company Tuff Mounts, which I will custom-mount in the engine bay once I have my intake manifold back from being machined to fit the injector bungs as this gives me the best idea of how much space I have around the motor.
Removing the distributor meant I needed this billet-machined oil pump drive from BOP Engineering in the USA. Wade made this piece up and it could also be used as a cam sync if I wanted to go full sequential ignition later on down the track.